Battery Wiring Diagram v3
Download a large copy here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2ihJ04Ijch5NGkzZ2pMVllMNVk
Switch 100 Wiring Diagram v1
Download a PDF here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2ihJ04Ijch5U21MSE9uWVJUbDA
2012-07-15
e-bike: updated battery & wiring diagrams
Here are updated battery and wiring diagrams, based on things I've figured out since I posted the first set. Please delete or ignore any previous versions, thanks. :)
Download a large copy here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2ihJ04Ijch5NGkzZ2pMVllMNVk
Download a PDF here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2ihJ04Ijch5U21MSE9uWVJUbDA
Download a large copy here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2ihJ04Ijch5NGkzZ2pMVllMNVk
Download a PDF here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2ihJ04Ijch5U21MSE9uWVJUbDA
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Hey Andrew
ReplyDeleteThanks for the wiring diagram..very useful. I had sent you a PM from the TERA group with a few Q's. Reproducing it below as I'm guessing you look at your blog more frequently:
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I happened to stumble onto your blog and was wondering if I could pick your brain a bit about the Switch 100. I have been a member of the TERA group for some time riding a heavier bike (similar to a Daymak Gatto), but recently switched to a Switch (actually something called an ezcruzer from ezriders on Queen St,. but really a Switch). Mine has a 20ah lithium battery, 18" wheels, a digital speedometer, and the guy says it's an 800w/500w continuous motor - but I'm not sure about that.
I looked at your wiring diagram (thanks for that) and had a few Q's:
- The salesman told me it had 12V accessories, but clearly from your diagram, this is not the case (no surprise to me). Are 56V accessories easy to get if needed?
- My bike doesn't have any audible clicker for turn signals. I would like to put some buzzers in as I did on my old bike. I don't want them using that speaker in there (too loud). I had some 12V buzzers from Radio Shack that I took out of my old bike. Do you think these would work or will I blow them? Guess I can just try and see..they only cost a couple of bucks.
- In the drawing, I see something labelled "15 km/h cutoff". Is this a speed limiter? I assume my bike may have one set at some value? What would it physically look like and how would I disable it?
- This speedo doesn't seem to have any mechanical connection to the wheels. Just wondering how it gets its values? I'm wondering if mine is reading wrong as it is somehow perhaps calibrated to a smaller wheel size. Do you know if there is any adjustment for this?
I don't plan on doing a lot of changes to this thing, but just like to know how it works and obviously you know the guts of it way better than me.
Appreciate any feedback and other comments on the bike itself. So far, I really like it.
Fred
Hi Fred.
DeleteSorry I did not reply to you sooner.. my work week was very busy and I'm rather short on sleep as a result. -.-
12v Accessories: There are no 12v lines on the Switch, unless they've changed the design since mine was made in 2010, so I think any 12v accessories built for cars or motorcycles will not survive. I purchased a few high voltage buck transformers to convert the voltage down to around 5v, though I have yet to try hooking one up. I plan to replace the headlight, turn signals, etc. with more efficient 5v LEDs and to also hook up an IOIO board so I can connect the bike's systems to an Android device.
You could go back to ezriders and ask them about where you can hook 12v accessories into the harness..? If they claim it can be done, maybe they know a way that works.
Turn Signal Ticker: You might want to pick up a multimeter so you can check the voltage of the wires you're considering hooking the buzzers up to before you risk them.
Cutoff: The cutoff would limit the top speed of the bike to 15 kph if you connect it.. at least that's what I think it does, I've honestly never tried hooking it up to find out for sure. I want to go faster, quicker & further, not slower. :) The limits on the speed of our bikes isn't just a switch like that however; the motor controller is only designed to fire so much power at the motor which is also only designed to handle a certain amount.
It would probably be easier to build or buy a completely new motor controller with a higher output, than to try and bodge the stock one to boost it. (Though I could be wrong.. I've not really looked into it yet.) I'm pretty sure the motor can handle more power than is required to hit 35kph, but then over heating becomes a concern. The final limit would be the amount and rate of power the battery pack can produce.
(Sorry.. I'm sure there are technical terms for all of these things as I'm not very experienced - yet - with the maths behind DC circuits.)
Speedo: I think it gets it's reading from the Hall Effect sensors in the wheel motor. Their resistance varies depending on where they are positioned in a magnetic field, so the motor controller gets a reading of where the permanent magnets are in the wheel relative to the position of the 3 H-E sensors. It uses that info to work out which of the 3 electro magnet circuits to switch on in order to get the bike rolling from a standing stop.
It should also be able to sense the pulse rate of the perm. magnets passing by the H-E sensors while the bike is in motion and from that rate, determine the bike's speed.
My bike's speedo is a mechanical one, and it has a small potentiometer (variable resistor) on one side which can be adjusted with a small screw driver. Your's probably has something similar inside the speedo housing. With a GPS to give you an accurate reading of your speed and some time spent tweaking the potentiometer you should be able to get it to read more accurately.
I hope that helps!
Comment-wise on the bike: I like the motor and controller system.. those both seem pretty well made. But the frame is kind of heavy & sloppily put together and the pedals/chain/gears are surprisingly crude. But as most people will rarely - if ever - actually pedal their e-bike, I suppose it doesn't matter that much.
Safe riding. :)
Hey Andrew
DeleteThanks for the reply. Like you, I've been busy and I just haven't had time to investigate this thing much..although in general, I am pleased.
Voltage:
I am pretty sure as you say there is no 12V line on my bike and that the dealer just doesn't know the details. I tried my buzzers on a workbench by delivering 53V or so from the charger and they seemed to buzz..maybe a little faster than at 12V. If I fry them, they only cost a few bucks each anyway.
What is an IOIO board? Where do you get high voltage buck transformers?
Speedo:
I'll look for the potentiometer on the speedo. I'm thinking it may be calibrated to a 16" wheel instead of the 18" that this one has.
Other:
I also notice that there is no odometer as such. Whenever the key is turned off, the value in the distance travelled gets reset to zero so it is more like a trip meter. Not sure if there's an easy fix for this - nor is it super important to me.
I do find I pedal about 5 or 6 turns sometimes when starting from a stop -- especially if it's uphill. Maybe I feel guilty about the motor doing all the work!
Thanks again. Hope you don't mind if I pick your brain once in a while as I get more into this vehicle.
Fred
Glad to hear your buzzers survived.. guess it depends on what their tolerances for different voltages are, eh?
DeleteAn IOIO board is a low-cost way to connect sensors and relays and such to a device running Android. A company called Sparkfun sells them: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10748 I am going to rebuild the wiring on my bike to use it to connect to my phone.
I ordered the high voltage buck transformers from ProDCtoDC here: http://www.prodctodc.com/lm2596hv-dcdc-4555v-adjustable-power-supply-converter-stepdown-module-p-110.html I have some LM2596 ICs, but not the HV (high voltage) versions, so I decided to just buy a ready-made board rather than build from scratch again.
There no odo on my bike either. Just the speedo and voltage indicator.. which is now pretty redundant since I'm running a LiFE-PO cell battery pack rather than Lead-acid.
If you want to "chat" more real-time please feel free to email me at android(d0t)murphy([at])gmail{dawt}com
I have a Kiwi from mobility unlimited-under the base plate of the Batt box is a dc to dc converter that was unlabled except for a 10 amp mark-output is 12 volts and all auxillary lights ,honkers beepers ect are unpowered when its disconnected.I thought I'd bought a scooter,but the way its squacking at me-I may have married it!The spec label was removed from this converter as was the one on the controller-at the factory looks like.I'd like too know if the upvolt too 60 volts from 50 can be done with this controller.A 40 kph cruise speed is needed so a top speed of 50kph.Above that I wouldn't care too ride it.
ReplyDeleteTodd Millions tmillions@hotmail.com
Sorry but I have no idea if that is do-able or not. I'm not an electronics tech.. more of a tinkerer than an expert. You could try asking on an e-bike forum.
DeleteThanx Mr.Murphy-I've poked a bit.And am unsure of the info quality.I've also tried to get flat free tires for my nicom but may have being scammed.The item that has proved easy too upgrade has being the head and tail lamp.replacing the headlight to a permanent low beam-of 2pcs 6 volt led flashlights,in series with a low small low volt bulb as a amp choke,and a bypass on the tail light to an led clearence marker-adds about one mile too the range.Flasher bulbs and brake light of course are not really worth the conversion.But the low beam headlight conversion is a very definite improvement.I need a high beam on a 40kmh vechile like I (or anyone)needs peirced nipples.
Deletewiring diagram for 6 12vt lithium batteries for daymak
ReplyDeleteem1
Andrew murphy I need your help
ReplyDeleteI am trusting the same best exertion from you later on too. Actually your exploratory writing abilities has roused me. Best E-Bikes
ReplyDeleteMy Daymak EM1 has a 12V dual pin connector tywrapped to the rear (left) brake master cylinder. I don't know about other models. Does anyone know where the 30A main fuse is located?
ReplyDelete